Portree, Isle of Skye - Scotland
Ever find yourself stuck in a beautiful place? Like, ridiculously, breathtakingly beautiful? That’s exactly what happened to us in Portree, the charming capital of the Isle of Skye. We arrived on a giant cruise ship with no concrete plan, and it turned out to be one of the most delightful stops of our trip.
Portree is a hiker’s paradise and the largest town on Scotland's second-largest island, located on the west coast. With scenic landscapes, stunning cliffs, and vibrant harbors, this place is a feast for the eyes. While we didn’t have much time to explore in-depth, here’s a rundown of the essentials in Portree—what worked for us and what you might want to plan for.
Getting Around Portree: The Basics
Portree’s location makes it a bit tricky for visitors with limited time, especially if you’ve arrived by tender from a cruise ship. The island’s main attractions are about 30-40 minutes away in any direction, which doesn’t leave you much time to see everything if you only have six hours in port.
West: Dunvegan Castle
South: Talisker Distillery and Fairy Pools
North: Storr Rock, Kilt Rock, and Quiraing
With limited time and no clear plan, we quickly realized a few things about getting around. Taxis get booked fast, and there’s no Uber. Public buses are limited, especially on weekends, and there’s only one car rental company in town. If you’re visiting Portree on a big cruise ship like we were, you’ll be part of an invading force of a few thousand tourists all competing for food, space, and transportation in a small town not equipped for crowds.
Portree’s Tender Dock & Town Center
The small tender dock is one of Portree's highlights, with colorful buildings lining the harbor and a short tender ride from the ship to the port. Once you disembark, tours might meet you at the dock, but most visitors head straight into the town center, just a 5-10 minute walk away.
Most of the town is perched on a rise facing the harbor. To reach the main town area, you'll need to climb a few stairs or follow a narrow street. Once you’re up the hill, everything you need is within a few blocks.
As you reach the top, you'll see the Royal Bank of Scotland ATM on your left. Keep going straight down the street, and you’ll come across the Tourist Information Office, located by a parking lot. The staff there is incredibly helpful, even opening on Sundays! They provide updated bus schedules and maps, plus there are public restrooms available. Just a couple of blocks further, you’ll find more clean, free public toilets.
Tips:
Portree is a small town, pre-arrange your independent tours or car rentals before arriving.
If you arrive on a ship with more than 2000 passengers, be ready for lines everywhere you go.
Somerled Square: Portree’s Bus Hub
If you're taking the bus, Somerled Square is the main hub, where buses depart for places like Kilt Rock, Dunvegan Castle, Old Man of Storr, and Talisker Distillery. But be aware that the bus schedule is limited, especially on weekends. It’s a good idea to check rometorio.com for updated times or ask at the tourist office for the most current schedule.
The square is a charming little spot, with benches and a water refill station. There’s also plenty of shopping and dining to explore, though expect smaller seating areas and higher prices. We stopped at Co-op Food, a popular grocery store with tourists, and picked up a sandwich—a quick, affordable choice when you're on the go.
Walking Trails in Portree
Despite the lack of transportation options, we discovered that the true charm of Portree lies in walking. The harbor area is picturesque, and there are two must-see trails that you can easily access from the town.
1. Scorrybreac Trail
This easy 10-minute walk leads you to the trailhead, which runs north along Loch Portree. The trail offers stunning vistas, a waterfall, and paths that feel like something out of a fairytale. Be mindful of mud, though—my shoes! We didn’t venture far into the trail, but even just pausing at the hillside slope offered beautiful views. If you continue further, the trail wraps around the Loch and extends even more, providing plenty of quiet and peaceful spots to pause and enjoy the scenery.
2. The Lump
"The Lump" is a small hillside jutting out right next to the dock. You can access it from a trail near the church, and it loops around in a circle, so you don’t have to worry about getting lost. The path is narrow but well-maintained, offering tranquil moments even in a bustling town. Walking along the water, we found a quiet place to reflect and take in the peaceful atmosphere.
3. Marsh Area near the Visitor’s Center
For a different perspective of the town, check out the small marsh area just west of the Visitor's Center, down a street facing a large car park. It’s an interesting spot that offers a quieter place to sit and reflect.
Discovering Portree’s Hidden Gem
Bikes on the Brae
While wandering, we stumbled upon Bikes on the Brae, a quaint coffee shop and bike rental spot. It’s a hidden gem offering both traditional and assisted e-bikes for rent, perfect for exploring the island’s stunning terrain. They also have delicious cakes and friendly staff. If you're planning to rent bikes, definitely book online in advance.
Car Rentals: Morrison’s Car Hire
If you prefer to rent a car for your visit, Morrison’s Car Hire is the only rental company in town, located about a 20-minute walk from the dock. They offer pick-up directly from the harbor, but you'll need to call them to arrange everything since they don’t do online bookings.
Cool souvenirs idea: cheeky maps
Don’t forget to check out the hand-designed maps from a local artist, which feature cheeky place names and wry commentary. They’re a fun way to learn more about the town, and they make for great souvenirs!
Final Thoughts: The Portree Experience
Despite the crowds, we found Portree to be a delightful place. The people are kind, patient, and welcoming, making the experience even more enjoyable. Whether it’s exploring the harbor, hiking the nearby trails, or discovering local hidden gems like Bikes on the Brae, Portree offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and community charm. Next time we visit, we’ll definitely plan ahead—perhaps with a bike rental or a car to explore more of the island. But even without extensive planning, Portree’s charm is undeniable, and it’s a place we’ll remember fondly.
If you're visiting Portree, embrace the walkability of the town and take your time exploring its peaceful corners. It’s a perfect stop to recharge, soak in the beauty, and appreciate the slower pace of life on the Isle of Skye.