Lerwick, Shetland Island, Scotland Cruise Port
If you’re cruising Norway or the British Isles, you might find yourself in Lerwick, the largest town in the Shetland Islands, where you can spot Shetland ponies and, if you’re visiting in January, catch the unique local Viking festivities. On the surface, Lerwick looked a bit bland and small to me at first, but it turned out to have a surprising amount of charm and things to explore if you know where to look.
Located northeast of Scotland, Lerwick is at the northern boundary of the UK. The port is on the smaller side, so cruise ships typically use tender boats to take you to shore, docking at a pontoon pier near a small parking area. The tender ride is only a few minutes, and you’ll find the town welcoming and ready for visitors.
Arrival and First Impressions
Tendering to Shore: As you arrive by tender, you’ll dock close to a parking lot where tour buses and taxis are conveniently waiting to take travelers on excursions around Lerwick and nearby attractions.
Local Entertainment: When you step off the boat, you’re greeted by local musicians performing in the streets, setting a lively tone for your visit.
Facilities and Amenities: Right off the pier, there are clean public toilets and a tourist information office. ATMs are plentiful, and the sidewalks are manageable, with just a hint of cobblestone.
Exploring Lerwick by Foot
While some visitors opt for organized tours to see Shetland ponies or nearby towns like Scalloway, many choose to explore Lerwick itself. Walking around town, you’ll discover a mix of quirky shops and interesting places to visit.
Unique Shops: Lerwick has several charming stores, including one memorable soap shop (Shetland Soap Company) staffed by locals with disabilities. There’s also an assortment of local stores selling everything from souvenirs to cowboy costumes, if that’s your thing!
Walking Tips: As you wander, be mindful of the cars. Although there are signs restricting vehicle access in certain areas, drivers can come up quickly and often.
The Joy of Wandering Back Streets
For me, the real joy of Lerwick was simply drifting through the back streets, where you’ll find some of the most inviting alleys around.
Coastal Walk: Lerwick offers a coastal walk that circles the town, which takes about two hours to complete. It’s a hilly route, so dress for weather that’s often windy and rainy.
Commercial Street: Along Commercial Street, you’ll see some beautiful old buildings, including the Lodberrie, famously known as the most photographed building in Scotland. It’s also a frequent feature in a popular BBC TV show.
Historical Highlights: Fort Charlotte and Lerwick Museum
While exploring, make sure to check out Fort Charlotte, one of Lerwick’s historical landmarks, as well as the town’s small yet fascinating museum.
Fort Charlotte: A stop by Fort Charlotte offers a touch of history and views over Lerwick. It’s a nice place to appreciate the local architecture and landscape.
Lerwick Museum and Archive: Located at the northern end of town, this museum is free to enter and showcases local history through detailed exhibits, often focused on oral histories and cultural snapshots. When we visited, they had a photo exhibit on women working in the fishing industry, which gave an intriguing glimpse into local life.
A Culinary Stop: Fjara Café at Ness of Sound
After a morning of exploring, we heard about a café a bit outside the town center that came highly recommended. We made our way to the Fjara Café at the Ness of Sound, a 20-minute walk across town.
The Café: Fjara Café lived up to the praise, with great food, a cozy atmosphere, and beautiful views of the Ness. They had a variety of hearty options, including a massive burger and local Shetland specialties like saussermeat, a spiced meat patty made from beef or lamb.
Getting Back to Town: After our meal, we didn’t feel up to walking back, so we were lucky to find a driver who offered us a free lift. The town’s Route 1 bus also runs in a loop, making it easy to get around if you don’t want to walk.
Final Thoughts
Lerwick might not look like much at first glance, but it’s full of hidden gems and local charm. From the lively streets and inviting alleys to unique shops and scenic coastal views, Lerwick offers a warm welcome to visitors. Whether you’re touring Shetland ponies, enjoying live street music, or tasting the local flavors at Fjara Café, Lerwick has something for everyone who wants to wander at their own pace and discover a side of the Shetlands that’s more than meets the eye.