Belugas, Puffins, and Volcanos: Is this Iceland’s Hidden Gem?
Heimaey may be a tiny island, but it turned out to be one of the most rewarding stops on our travels. With its incredible wildlife, volcanic history, and unexpected culinary delights, Heimaey has earned its place as one of Iceland's hidden gems. Read on to find out why this little island port town deserves a spot on your itinerary.
Resources and links:
SEA LIFE Trust Visitor Center / Eidheimar Museum Ticket Package
Pizza with local twist:
Pitsugerdin (Bárustígur 1)
A Brief Introduction to Heimaey
Heimaey is the largest and only inhabited island of the Westman Islands, located off the southwest coast of Iceland. Famous for its scenic beauty and exceptional bird and whale watching opportunities, it also serves as the gateway to nearby Surtsey Island, a protected sanctuary for puffins. In the summer, around 8 million puffins make their way here, making the Westman Islands a hotspot for birdwatching.
But more recent events have added to Heimaey’s fame. On January 23, 1973, a volcanic eruption changed the island forever. The eruption forced a mass evacuation, and after four months of relentless lava flow, the island gained an additional 20% in landmass, with a new mountain, Eldfell, forming in the process. The eruption and its aftermath have earned Heimaey a unique place in history, sometimes called the "Pompeii of the North," with the excavation of buried homes offering a rare and powerful glimpse into the disaster's effects.
A Volcano Right in Town
Unlike other Icelandic volcano sites where you need to drive a distance to see something dramatic, Heimaey offers visitors the chance to experience volcanic history right in town. You can walk right up to the black volcanic rocks, see the remnants of the eruption, and feel the intense history and eerie vibes that still linger.
It wasn’t until visiting Heimaey that I truly appreciated Iceland's volcanic nature. There are plenty of tours, including ATV adventures (as you might expect in a place like this), but we decided to explore the island on foot. There’s so much to see within a 20-minute walk, and it was more than enough to immerse ourselves in the island’s fascinating landscape.
The Port and Pier
The port in Heimaey is located in the northernmost town of Vestmannaeyjabær. While the pier accommodates smaller vessels, larger ships like ours have to tender in. The sail into port is impressive, especially as you pass by a huge rock on the way. The harbor area is compact and easy to navigate on foot, with the main attractions clustered close to the dock.
As we arrived, we spotted a bus stop listing all the visiting ships for the season, although we weren’t sure exactly what it was used for. However, as you continue walking, you’ll find a few essentials: heated and slick public toilets, several tour offices (some of which also function as tourist information points), and the ferry office. It’s easy to spot the hop-on-hop-off buses that will take you to farther reaches of the island, such as the puffin sanctuary to the south. Of course, there are also plenty of ATV rentals and even scooter rentals for those wanting to explore the island in a more adventurous way.
Local Cuisine: Pizza in Heimaey
After exploring, we needed a bite to eat and decided to try a local favorite: Pitsugerdin (Bárustígur 1), a family-run pizza place. It turned out to be a great choice. The pizza was hearty and delicious, with options like The G Special—BBQ, pepperoni, cream cheese, bacon, aioli, jalapenos, and an Italian margarita. It was exactly the kind of meal we needed after a busy day of sightseeing.
Exploring the Island on Foot
Heimaey offers plenty of opportunities for walking and hiking, even right from the town center. A quick five-minute walk uphill from the harbor leads to a small park with a fantastic view. From there, you can continue your exploration, passing by Skanskin, a fort built in 1586 to ward off competing fishermen and, at one point, even enslaved Turks.
Further down the road, you’ll encounter Landlyst, the island’s oldest building, which also served as Iceland’s first birthing center. Now a small museum, it offers a glimpse into the island’s medical history. Right next to it, you’ll find a replica Stave Church, gifted to the town in 2000. At the end of the path is a small lighthouse, which stands as a memorial to the 58 local fishing vessels that evacuated almost the entire population during the 1973 eruption. This mini Dunkirk moment is a point of pride for the island, especially since the eruption resulted in very few casualties.
Hiking and Volcanic Trails
Heimaey offers a variety of hiking trails that are easily accessible from the town center. The trails are lined with dramatic volcanic rock, providing a stunning backdrop to your walk. If you follow the trail that veers right from the town, you’ll encounter some excellent views of the town and the surrounding islands. For more ambitious hikers, there are trails leading up to Eldfell, the newly-formed volcano, where you can get an up-close look at the landscape altered by the eruption. You could easily spend a whole day hiking here, taking in the expansive views and the rugged terrain.
Eldheimar Museum: A Window into the Past
To fully understand the significance of the 1973 eruption, it’s essential to visit the Eldheimar Museum (Gerðisbraut 10). Built on the site of excavation efforts, the museum offers an emotional and powerful experience. Visitors can use audio guides to hear firsthand accounts of people escaping their homes, many of which were buried by lava and ash. The museum also offers a thorough exploration of the town’s life before the eruption, the evacuation process, and how the island rebuilt itself after the disaster. One of the most striking aspects of the museum is how it highlights the resilience of the people who lived here. After the eruption, locals found ways to use the heat from the cooling lava to generate electricity and even extend the runway at the island’s small airport.
SEA LIFE Trust Visitor Center
One of the most unique attractions in Heimaey is the SEA LIFE Trust Visitor Center (Ægisgata 2). This marine conservation organization operates the world’s only beluga whale sanctuary, where two belugas were brought after being rescued from captivity. The center also runs a puffin rescue program, where injured or stranded puffins are brought in for rehabilitation. It’s an incredible place to learn about the island’s wildlife and see these animals up close. However, it can get crowded, so it's advisable to book your tickets in advance.
Final Thoughts
Heimaey may be small, but it’s filled with rich history, stunning landscapes, and unforgettable wildlife experiences. Whether you’re hiking through volcanic trails, exploring the unique history of the 1973 eruption, or spending time at the SEA LIFE Trust, there’s something for everyone on this small island. For those looking for a blend of natural beauty, history, and adventure, Heimaey is definitely worth a visit. If we ever return, we’d love to explore the island’s more remote areas and do more hiking. It’s a place that promises new discoveries with each visit.